What Happens in India...
It's true what they say about India. It engages all the senses (maybe "attacks" is a better word to use here...).
So what is India like? Besides the vast array of interesting (and sometimes not-so-pleasant) smells, the first thing you notice after you step out of the Kolkata airport and into hot, soupy air is one thing: noise. You are suddenly immersed in a cacophonic symphony of noises. Why is everyone honking their horns?... constantly? I mean, seriously? Traffic is stopped, and the horns honk. Traffic is moving, yet the horns still honk. We are passing another bus with just a hair between the two before they scrape against each other... and you guessed it - the horns still honk. I finally reached one solid conclusion about all this crazy honking in Kolkata. Indian cars, unlike Western cars and many other Eastern cars, are not fueled by gasoline as you would think. No, in fact, my theory is that Indian cars are actually propelled forward by honking of the car's horn. There is no other explanation! Because it seems to me that if the driver isn't honking, the car cannot move. I've always heard it's better to show than just tell, so hopefully to give you a better picture of what it's like, here's a little video I recorded while riding home from ministry on the bus.
So what is India like? Besides the vast array of interesting (and sometimes not-so-pleasant) smells, the first thing you notice after you step out of the Kolkata airport and into hot, soupy air is one thing: noise. You are suddenly immersed in a cacophonic symphony of noises. Why is everyone honking their horns?... constantly? I mean, seriously? Traffic is stopped, and the horns honk. Traffic is moving, yet the horns still honk. We are passing another bus with just a hair between the two before they scrape against each other... and you guessed it - the horns still honk. I finally reached one solid conclusion about all this crazy honking in Kolkata. Indian cars, unlike Western cars and many other Eastern cars, are not fueled by gasoline as you would think. No, in fact, my theory is that Indian cars are actually propelled forward by honking of the car's horn. There is no other explanation! Because it seems to me that if the driver isn't honking, the car cannot move. I've always heard it's better to show than just tell, so hopefully to give you a better picture of what it's like, here's a little video I recorded while riding home from ministry on the bus.
Kolkata was quite a culture shock for me. After acclimating to the quiet, peaceful, and indirect culture of Thailand, Kolkata was a shock to the senses. Even the language was surprising for me to hear at first. Unlike the melodic rhythm of Thai that I was so accustomed to, Bengali and Hindi are strong sounding languages. Also unlike the soft, gentle demeanor of the Thai people, the Indian people are very direct and have a tendency to speak pretty loudly. Even their facial expressions were completely foreign to me. I had suddenly stepped out of the "land of smiles" into a land where head bobs can mean "yes," "no,"or "yes but I'm reluctant to agree" (I'm still unclear on the head bob, but it is fun to do nevertheless. It's also so cute to see little Indian children practicing the head bob by watching their parents).
The concept of personal space is a foreign concept to Indian people. I found the culture to be fairly aggressive. Even the beggars had an aggressive air about them. Unlike the Thai beggars who typically sit along the side of the road, head bowed, and sometimes respectfully and pleadingly presenting the "wai" to passersby, Indian beggars are very direct and assertive. I learned that many of the families living on the street teach their children to go up to people on the street and ask for money, food, or water. The children on the street sometimes grabbed my clothes (they were particularly drawn to my Punjabi suit scarf for some reason) or take my hand and plead with me to give them money. Sometimes they tried to lead me to a nearby shop in hopes that I would buy them food or something to drink. I learned to be very careful about what I carried with me on the street. I had some instances where a kid would actually take a water bottle out of my hands and ran away with it. Gatorade was definitely risky to carry out in the open.
Children were not the only beggars I encountered on the street. I noticed older women, surprisingly enough, seemed to be living a lifestyle of begging. Something surprising I learned about begging culture is that begging is sometimes a choice in Kolkata. Women sometimes chose a life of begging over working a steady job... Why?... well, it's fairly profitable. Of course that is not always the case in the begging community. There are also the disabled and those who are unable to work. I saw many beggars with severely disabling injuries or deformities that were most likely the result of birth defects. I won't forget the image of one man walking on all fours like a dog up and down the street begging for rupees. These are known as the "untouchables" in Hindu society, and you can clearly see that this is how the people of India treat them: as those who should not be touched.
Culture shock was something I was undoubtedly struggling with when I first arrived to India. Curry was so delicious the first time... but after a month you start to long for something that is simply... not curry. Luckily there were a few Western fast food shops in Kolkata. In fact, KFC has somehow made it's way all the way to India - what?? And of course there's McDonald's. But you should know, if you plan to go to McDonald's in India, the menu will be quite a bit different from you traditional Western menu. In fact, McDonald's in India do not serve hamburgers. Yes. That's right. There are NO hamburgers at McDonald's in India. Which makes sense because they don't eat beef, right? It's unfortunate, however, to make this connection while you are standing in line at the McDonald's in Kolkata searching for a BigMac on the menu. Let's see... chicken, fish, something that looks like meet but is actually a vegetable... and everything is seasoned with Masala and Curry. But.... where's the beef?
I am told that often when people experience culture shock they feel rather dirty and paranoid that their new surroundings are also contaminated or dirty. This is usually psychological. However, I think can say with a clean conscience in the case of Kolkata, it truly is dirty and perhaps contaminated. Perhaps I'm naive, but I have never seen anything like Kolkata. The sewage. The smell. The flies on the raw meet hanging outside of shops. The sick and infected animals. The trash littered everywhere on the streets. The exhaust from buses and cars. The cows and chickens and other animals wandering through the streets. I also don't think I really ever got used to seeing men bathing in public either. On every corner there are water pumps where people draw their daily water from. It is also (regretfully) a perfectly acceptable place for Indian men to take a bath. They have a towel of course. But still. Also, the world is your bathroom in Kolkata. Does that need more explanation?
There are also some efficient ways of doing things in Kolkata. Like, for example, tying your chickens to the handles of your bicycle. You see, it's efficient because it keeps the chickens fresh. What I didn't know is that the chickens stay fresh because they are actually ALIVE while they are tied to the bike handles. That was surprising. Another little fun fact is that Indian people never put their lips on the bottle they are drinking from. Instead, they just pour into their mouths. I assume this is a hygiene consideration. Hygiene is important in Kolkata, except for the fact that they eat with their hands. Which makes less sense to me as far as hygiene goes.
Namaskar
Ministry in Kolkata
Our main ministry in Kolkata was with King's Kids, a YWAM ministry that worked with children who lived on the street. The children came to the ministry weekday mornings and stayed until around lunchtime. The first thing we did when the kids arrived was give them a good cleaning and a new change of clothes (they had indoor showers, by the way. No street showers during ministry time haha). Then we had praise and worship, a short lesson, a snack, and playtime until lunch. Of course the children we were working with did not attend school, seeing as they were with us during school hours. The ministry did help them with some basic school skills as well such as letters, numbers, and reading.
The children are, in a word, precious. They are incredibly friendly, as is typical of Indian people. They primarily speak Bengali and sometimes a little English. Most of the time I had no earthly idea what they were saying to me (and the translations were usually quite surprising). As might be expected of children growing up on the street, the kids had a tendency towards violence and aggression. We broke up a good many fights. Of course, it is also partly cultural for friends and family to be "rough" with each other. This was shocking to us. Even the staff, who clearly cared for the children and had their best interests at heart, would sometimes give a kid a good smack on the back of the head to make sit down.
The language barrier also posed a bit of a challenge for us. Nevertheless, the children didn't seem to mind whether or not we spoke the same language. I had three little pals all around age 4 or 5 who took a shine to me. They followed me everywhere. Often all three of them found it of vital importance to sit on my lap at the same time. It was a bit crowded, but of course I didn't mind.
I think this excursion to the children's living communities was one my most significant experiences in India, because I suddenly had this revelation: homelessness is a way of life.
I'm not sure what I expected to find when we visited the children's homes. Sad and dirty teary eyed faces of undernourished children? Maybe. Of course there were some. But what I also saw was children having lunch with their mom, their dad, their grandmother, their sisters and brothers, and their sisters and brothers-in-law. I saw groups of fathers sitting in a circles on a mat on the ground playing cards and chatting and laughing with each other. I saw mothers sitting on makeshift stools stirring pots of boiling fish soup while talking with their daughters about something that seemed rather important. I saw children playing cricket in the streets with the children of other homeless families living in their communities. I saw lots of smiling, friendly faces who offered me a bowl of soup, despite the absolute poverty they were facing. In a word, I saw one simple thing: family. I saw that the children I was working with did indeed have families to go home to. That was pretty significant.
Of course I'm not saying homelessness is an easy lifestyle or even a good lifestyle, but it is definitely just that: a lifestyle. It changed the way that I viewed the children I was working with. I had a little more insight into their way of life. I was able to empathize and understand their perspectives better. Not all homeless families are living in defeat or helplessness as maybe I had assumed. They are a creative, intelligent people bursting with life and enthusiasm (of course, in some cases, the enthusiasm may be a little misguided). Nevertheless, I loved working with the children. And I miss them even now.
Another experience that really impacted me in India was working at the Mother Theresa Home's ministry Prem Dan. This is a good sized facility filled with people, the majority elderly, who are dying or destitute. What I witnessed at Prem Dan was unlike anything I've seen before. A hundred or more elderly women sitting in rows in plastic chairs. Just waiting. Waiting for snacks, lunch, or nap time. Not much else to do. Many were so helpless from sickness, old age, physical injuries or deformities. I saw an acid victim for the first time. As volunteers, we helped with basic chores like cleaning and laundry, but we also were able to spend time with the women. Most just needed help eating, getting to the bathroom, or help putting on lotion. I was particularly drawn to one elderly woman who grabbed my hand when I was walking by. She spoke Hindi, and I couldn't understand a word she was saying, but she was quite interested in talking to me. I massaged her hands and arms and feet with lotion, listening a little helplessly as she spoke to me in Hindi. She teared up several times and kissed me over and over again. She seemed so lonely. And so thankful for someone to care for her. My heart broke when I thought of my own grandmother and how devastated I would be to know she was spending the end of her life here. Alone. Forgotten and unnoticed. I cried so much when I had to leave. She seemed to remember me when I returned the next week and became a little emotional. She kissed me again and again. I don't even know her name....
I'm not sure what I expected to find when we visited the children's homes. Sad and dirty teary eyed faces of undernourished children? Maybe. Of course there were some. But what I also saw was children having lunch with their mom, their dad, their grandmother, their sisters and brothers, and their sisters and brothers-in-law. I saw groups of fathers sitting in a circles on a mat on the ground playing cards and chatting and laughing with each other. I saw mothers sitting on makeshift stools stirring pots of boiling fish soup while talking with their daughters about something that seemed rather important. I saw children playing cricket in the streets with the children of other homeless families living in their communities. I saw lots of smiling, friendly faces who offered me a bowl of soup, despite the absolute poverty they were facing. In a word, I saw one simple thing: family. I saw that the children I was working with did indeed have families to go home to. That was pretty significant.
Of course I'm not saying homelessness is an easy lifestyle or even a good lifestyle, but it is definitely just that: a lifestyle. It changed the way that I viewed the children I was working with. I had a little more insight into their way of life. I was able to empathize and understand their perspectives better. Not all homeless families are living in defeat or helplessness as maybe I had assumed. They are a creative, intelligent people bursting with life and enthusiasm (of course, in some cases, the enthusiasm may be a little misguided). Nevertheless, I loved working with the children. And I miss them even now.
Another experience that really impacted me in India was working at the Mother Theresa Home's ministry Prem Dan. This is a good sized facility filled with people, the majority elderly, who are dying or destitute. What I witnessed at Prem Dan was unlike anything I've seen before. A hundred or more elderly women sitting in rows in plastic chairs. Just waiting. Waiting for snacks, lunch, or nap time. Not much else to do. Many were so helpless from sickness, old age, physical injuries or deformities. I saw an acid victim for the first time. As volunteers, we helped with basic chores like cleaning and laundry, but we also were able to spend time with the women. Most just needed help eating, getting to the bathroom, or help putting on lotion. I was particularly drawn to one elderly woman who grabbed my hand when I was walking by. She spoke Hindi, and I couldn't understand a word she was saying, but she was quite interested in talking to me. I massaged her hands and arms and feet with lotion, listening a little helplessly as she spoke to me in Hindi. She teared up several times and kissed me over and over again. She seemed so lonely. And so thankful for someone to care for her. My heart broke when I thought of my own grandmother and how devastated I would be to know she was spending the end of her life here. Alone. Forgotten and unnoticed. I cried so much when I had to leave. She seemed to remember me when I returned the next week and became a little emotional. She kissed me again and again. I don't even know her name....
Of course I can't talk about ministry in India without my team - Tiger Team. Oh, we had our hard times. But I can confidently say these guys loved me through the good and the bad. Even when I was being difficult - which I was at times, and even when the situation was difficult - which it often was, I felt safe and loved with them. Miss my Tiger Team (although we sometimes felt like kittens hahaha).
India was a difficult time for me, but also challenging in a good way. I think I know a lot more now about the world and how others live. My heart has grown a little more to embrace a world subject to such difficult problems like poverty, trafficking, and terminal illness. I'm not sure if I will be returning to Kolkata soon, but I am definitely grateful for the experience. I will never forget the faces and stories of the people I encountered there. I hope I was able to serve them, even if it was in a small way. But no matter how much or little impact I made, I know for certain their lives and stories have impacted me.

Brandi, myself, Brietta, and Manit in front of a Sari shop in Kolkatta.

The gang after a delightfully cold and unexpected thunderstorm
Victoria Monument, Kolkata India













